![]() In many cases a full-service lumberyard will size the beam (all support beams are rated according to their load) and sell it to you.ĭepending on the span and loading conditions, the beam might consist of multiple plies of dimensional lumber, heavy timber beams, multiple plies of engineered lumber, solid engineered lumber or steel.įire Safety: If the beam is steel then it should normally be protected against fire so that it will have 30 minutes resistance to fire (if measured in a standard test). This resistance can be achieved using two or more layers of plaster-boards. If an exposed timber beam is preferred then a calculation is generally required to demonstrate how much inherent fire resistance it has – dependent on its size and species of timber.Ī concrete beam has adequate fire resistance properties.Ĭonsiderations: Generally, installing the beam is a two person job. The beam will have to be supported by either a column or solid wall at both ends. ![]() – Steel columns (square and round) – for heavy loads – Use 4×4, 6×6 studs – for intermediate loads – Longer span beams require deeper beam sizes. – The load from these columns will have to be tracked through floors below. Make sure the below structure have sufficient capacity to support the new loads from the columns. ![]() Garvin didn't have them in 3/4" yet when I did the rough-in, but all the sizes are available now.– Remove everything from the room being renovated, hang dustsheets and cover the floor surface if it is in good condition and needs to be protected. I also used Garvin 5/8 octagon rings for the lights in my 5/8" drywall ceiling, and they are all recessed 3/16" to 1/4". I'd save the adjustables for where you plan to install tile. The screws hold friction wedges to secure the extension versus a threaded adjuster like the Garvin ones. Steel City has some adjustable mud rings that go down to 1/2". I was able to tell this when I mounted them. The double-gang adjustables telescope all the way down and sit flat with the 1/2" drywall, but the single-gang ones stick out 1/8". I also have a couple Garvin adjustables in my kitchen to accommodate tile not yet installed. Note that switches near the horizontal drywall seam will appear proud when the drywall goes up, because of the tapered drywall edge, but will be flush once the joint is mudded.Įven if your mud rings end up 1/16" proud, which they won't, the cover plates will still sit flat. Not one stuck proud of the wall, and nearly all were a perfect fit. You lose 1/8" from the screws plus another 1/16" for the sheet metal thickness. They all ended up 3/16" to 1/4" recessed even with the boxes mounted properly-code-legal but just barely. Then, to be safe, I picked mud rings the same nominal size as the drywall. Of course, adjustable rings would be great, but nowhere local carries them unfortunately.Ĭlick to expand.I rewired most of my house with square boxes and mud rings and spent way too much time researching this same question. So seems less precise, but more easily fixable if using the same size. If the ring is sized to the drywall size and is recessed a bit it is easier to put a few of the shims in when installing the switches and outlets. On the other hand, if for some reason I get everything flush when installing, I could have a mudring that sticks out past the drywall slightly which can't be fixed. On one hand, I would love for it to be flush out of the gate, which is why people upsize. Meaning, for 1/2" drywall, using 5/8" vs. I have read that there is a very testy debate going on for years about sizing up vs. Old work plastic is actually fine with me, but for new work, metal is where I will be at. I swore off plastic after years of being frustrated at the terrible declining quality of them as years go by. I am going to be using mud rings in metal boxes for the first time as I am remodeling.
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